The Piecing Process: No. 2 - Ruby Rag Doll

My current temp job is categorized as “data entry” but the job description is really more along the lines of “stare at the wall for seven hours because we don’t have the forms in yet for you to enter.” It’s pretty mind-numbing. That’s why it’s really nice to get out of work, crack open the Cherry Coke, and start stitching.

So…progress? Yes. There has been progress on the project at hand. I’m somewhat loathe to post progress pictures because not everything has been worked out and the edges are still raw…but the point of this is the process, so I can’t not document the less glamorous stages.



The bodice needs a bit of help yet. That cinching problem needs to be fixed or masked. I’ll probably end up doing something in black ribbon…but that involves finding some black ribbon. I’m also probably going to be needing to add shoulder straps to this thing...or some other means of holding it up.

I'm using a more industrial zipper than the average cocktail dress might have. I think the hardware adds something to the look of the thing, and since I'm highlighting the seams, why not bring out the zipper?



I will say that I’m pretty satisfied with how this is working out so far. I’m using a couple of unconventional methods here, including laying out pattern pieces and cutting on my lap (instead of a flat surface), guesstimation, and completely ignoring every bias ever. I think I can get away with ignoring the bias because the material is so thick and doesn’t really flow. This project would not result in good things if it involved chiffon. However, because I’m using a heavy fabric that doesn’t really drape too much one way or the other and because the chunks of fabric are small enough that they don’t have the chance to flutter or flow or go wild, I think we’ll be ok. The skirt is flowing decently, and that’s the big indicator.



I haven’t entirely decided how to hem this thing yet. I was noticing a certain effect achieved by putting a solid strip of fabric along the bottom, but I’m not sure it’s the effect that I want for this particular project (though it’s been duly noted for the future). I want it “raggedy” yet stable. I’m more concerned about stability. I’m trying to keep my edges uneven, with a shorter skirt in the front and longer in the back. Under the skirt I’m inserting almost a petticoat of black tulle, so that ought to add a bit more oomph.

Opulent Opportunism: An Introduction to No. 2 - Ruby Rag Doll

Wonder of wonders, I’ve actually started working on a dress. A planned dress. Remember the Ruby Rag Doll that started off as No. 3 and then got bumped to No. 2? Yup, so that’s what’s up.

So far I’ve actually accomplished the bodice of the dress. I’m still working out a few kinks in it, but for the most part it’s actually looking pretty good. The really scary thing about this one is that I’m basing off a pattern that I’ve never actually used before (seeing as how I can’t find the pattern I prefer to use as a basis) so I’m not exactly sure how well it will turn out in the end. I’ve already run into a little bit of trouble in the bust since I tried to get around the cinching they have patterned in, but instead ended up with a slightly awkward lump where the cinching should be. I think I’ve got a way to fix it and mask it…but we’ll get to that.

Let’s start at the beginning: the inspiration.

You’ve all seen the rough sketch for this (under the above link), so I wont repeat that. I’ll elaborate on the inspiration a bit more and the concept.

There are two sources of inspiration, really. The first is one of my all-time favorite costume pieces: the scarlet dragon robe from Bram Stoker’s Dracula. I love the material, I love the look, and I’m distressed that there’s really no great picture of it on Google images. The vibrancy isn’t really done justice in any of these screen caps, and unfortunately there’s no good overhead shot of it…because this thing extends to crazy lengths. I’ve actually heard it called the Romanian Wedding Dress by some fellow Dracula fanatics. And I’m so dedicated to doing this thing proper justice that I even went to YouTube to look for a clip of it in action…but tragically it looks as if any clip that might involve it might also entail listening to a terrible angst-ridden emo love song, so I’ll spare us all that misery…oh, someone’s dedicated their life to putting the entire movie in parts up on YouTube. Here's a tiny snippet.





If you love costumes and visual awesome, it’s well worth the two hours. And there’s the added bonus of Keanu Reeves as the world’s most unperturbed Jonathan Harker and a graphic vampire bride encounter that will be parodied until the end of time. Netflix it.

Anyway, the point is that the color and sheen play a huge role in this project. I’m also looking to achieve that strange degree of elegance. The robe doesn’t have what I’d call a conventional elegance, as it drags behind him as he sort of slithers about with his shadow, but there’s something weirdly fluid about it as it slides heavily, yet handsomely.

The second source of inspiration for this number is from one of my all-time favorite movies. This one I’ve loved since I was a small child and will continue to love for as long as I live: The Nightmare Before Christmas. The method of assembly for this dress is based on Sally and her whole…vibe.




I love the piecing in her dress (and the piecing of her) and am looking to emulate that. What stands out to me is how it seems as though she really pulled her dress together by using little scraps and making what she could out of what she had…which is also the challenge behind making a Frankenstein-type creature, or so I’m told. That’s the driving force behind this project, actually…using what I’ve got to get a result.

Also, while she’s a bit more delicate than Dracula, her hair sort of moves in the same way as Dracula’s robe train. Yes, her hair is made out of clay…but still, it’s the same principle of motion in a sense.

So, the concept here is I have a ton of this brocade which is cut into a bunch of pieces that are not necessarily conducive to making a regular dress from a regular pattern without massive amounts of piecing. So instead of going to lengths to hide the seams, I’m going to bring them out and really make them central to the dress. The idea is to combine the elegance and richness of Chinese brocade with utility and practicality. Hopefully the two will work well together and make something notable. And so far I’m liking my results…here's a preview:




Tomorrow we tackle the skirt...